1995 Chevy Suburban

1995 Chevy Suburban questions and answers

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Q: Where is the fuel filter located on a 1995 Chevy Suburban?


A: On your 1995 Chevrolet Truck K1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD 5.7L TBI , the Fuel Filter is located: Under vehicle, driver side, below seating area, driver side of transmission, mounted on frame rail in fuel line

Q: what transmission came with the 1995 Chevy Suburban?
2wd, 350

A: 1/2 ton is the 4l60E 3/4 ton will be the 4L80E

Q: Why Does 1995 Diesel Chevy Suburban shuts off while driving?
Truck works fine in idle; however while driving for approximately an Hour, or in high speed it starts jerking and shuts right off. Starts up back immediately, drives again for a few minutes, and then shuts down again. We have taken to 5 mechanics; 3 Garages however they were not able to resolve. To date we have changed Gas Pump; Gas sender; Temperture sender switch; Batteries; Shut off solenoid; Air Valve: Diesel fuel filter. In analysing, we have revved the engine and it also shuts off at 3x1000 rpm. Whenever the oil pressure gage reaches at 275 it also shut down. Your assistance in this matter will be much appreciated. We have exhausted just about all sources but to date to no avail. Note also: Prior to this start happening we had replaced transmission system.

A: Check the transmission to make sure all switches, etc are plugged in, especially the neutral safety switch. Also check to see if there any wires at the top of the tranny at back of motor to insure none were smashed or broken when they installed the new tranny. Sounds like a sensor malfunction.

Q: How much does it cost to repair a steering column?
I have a 1995 Chevy Suburban and it was broken into. The whole plastic covering was broken off and you are able to start the vehicle without using a key. How much do parts and labor cost for this type of service? Would I be able to take it to any mechanic or only specific places are able to do this type of service?

A: my answer is try this site it's help you a lot http://www.car-stuff.com/mmparts/chevy-suburban/body_parts.html

Q: Chevy Suburban Mechanics Please Help!!!?
Hi I have a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban K1500. 154,000 miles. Abou two days ago while in two wheel drive I pushed the gas and a horrible grinding noise came from the front possible drivers side. It stops when you let off the gas. If I hit a dip in the road it will grind while the suspension is depressed and stop when the suspension is normal again. When I put it in 4x4 the noise does not come around at all. In two wheel drive under acceleration it almost sounds like the 4x4 is trying to engage itself. The 4x4 is a manual shift lever and the Transmission is auto.. Is my T-case going out? Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreceated.. HELP!!

A: it is possible it might be because i just re-built a 93 model that was doing the same thing,and the chain and gears was ready to fall out of it,what you need to do is let a good transmission mechanic drive it,and see what they say about it,those usually didn't give any problems,but some of the ones i have been seeing have been causing problems,mostly high mileage vehicles though,have it checked to be sure,good luck with it.,,PS you may also have a cv joint going out in it,or it may have a bearing in the right wheel going bad also,those are simple front ends on those vehicles,good luck.

Q: can a 700r4 be turned into a four wheeldrive by just adding a transfer case?
1995 chevy suburban with a 5.7.

A: No the tailshaft housing and output shaft are different on a 4x4 compaired to a 2x4. You would have to disassemble the transmission to change them. .........md

Q: How much should I charge for this truck as a private owner?
A 1995 chevy suburban. chipped paint on the hood, top. needs new transmission. 215,000 miles. everything else (under the hood, interior, tires) is in great condition. with a new transmission it could get another 200,000 miles. What do you think I should charge for it? I'm new at this.

A: Go to KBB,com, and get pricing for your vehicle, including all the options, and as if it was in good running condition. Then, get a few quotes for the repair, and subtract that from the price, plus a little more for their trouble. You might ask the transmission repair shops if they know of anyone who would want it as-is, but ask after you get the quote. You'll sell it quicker if you fix the transmission yourself, though, and you'll probably make more, too, especially if you mention the new transmission and its warranty.

Q: What is the differnce between a Gas Fuel filter and a Diesel Fuel Filter?
I have a 1995 chevy suburban with a 6.5Turbo Diesel Engine. Previous Owner did away with the original Fuel Filter, due to it being located in back of engine and truck is tall. Mounted a RACCOR fuel / water sepporator on firewall and have been useing that as a fuel filter. However there is not enough room to get to the drain cock. I was thinking of taking that out and putting an inline fuel filter. THinking of useing a Fram G3850 or a Baldwin BF-7725 (the baldwin is what the mercedes' use). Is there a differnce between the gas inlione fuel filter and the diesel fuel filter. Any help or recommendation would be great. P.s. I have taken my tank down to clean it because my fuel is dark and was told that it was probably alge growing in there. Any recommendations on an algecide? Another question, would it be safe to use a gas filter in place of my diesel filter?

A: Gas fuel filters get rid of tiny particles. Diesel fuel filters do the same *as well as* separating the water. Yes, algae can grow in water. You might want to completely drain your fuel tank (I mean in a workshop, don't run it dry) as diesel tends to sit on a layer of water in the tank. Additional: Personally? I wouldn't.

Q: what should i get for an enclosure and alternator for 2 15" kicker L7's?
ok, i almost have everything i need sitting in my closet: i decided to go with 2 15" kicker L7's 2 Ohm DVC and a zx2500.1 amp to power them, and i have a zx350.4 to power my front components and rear door speakers. Now the advice i seek: i need a ported enclosure to put the 2 15's in (1995 Chevy Suburban). what do you recommend i should get, a custom made box?, if so what are the most common/popular dimensions? or should i go with a prefab kicker enclosure that is made for the 2 15's? ...wait theres more... i know i need to get a HO alternator. how many amps should it be? should i pay the $400.00 for the Mean Green Alternator? or is there a lesser alternator that will suit this system just fine? please add any advice or tips if ive left anything out, thank you.

A: Hey, Good decisions on the equipment you got! On the box for them 15's... I would recommend you first see what kind of music you listen to and the kind of response you want back from your woofers. Me, I rather go ported enclosures. For this kind of woofers, get a ported enclosure that is about 4.1 sqft per woofer (YEAH IS A LOT). Depending on the tone you want is the deep you need your port to be.. tough, forgot to menction that it also depends on the size (diameter) of the port. If you want to get specifics you can go into www.the12volt.com. They have some neat tools to help you determine that. I do not believe for Kicker to have prefab- boxes.. if they do and you can afford it, it might be a way to go. Meself, I would build it with a 4" diameter port by 6" long. Now, on the Alternator... Suburbans have big alternators already... Every single alternator has more "punch" than the vehicle needs, that is why every vehicle has a voltage regulator (new models whithin the alternator). My suggestion would be to get a 5 farad Capacitor and a Gel battery. The capacitor will get you from killing your alternator and seying the lights go away at night with every sound beat... the battery will help you mantaing the voltage in the circuit. Hope this helps you any.

Q: what are my options for powering my car stereo system at 2850 watts?
i have (2) 15" kicker L7's (1000 watts rms per sub) a kicker zx2500.1 (2500 watts rms) to power the pair. i have a zx350.4 amp to power my front components and rear door speakers. My vehicle is a 1995 CHEVY SUBURBAN not sure what the stock alternator puts out for Amps. I would like to know the best way to power this system with no problems. i intend on using kinetik batteries only. can someone please give me some guidance here before i end up getting F'd over by my local car audio installers. they were going to use a single HC1200 to power all my equipment and that doesn't sound right at all. the kinetik website calculator said that i need (2) HC1800 batteries to power the system and to change my battery under the hood with a HC???? (dont know which HC???? to replace it with, need help there) my local car audio installer/dealer said i dont need to get a HO alternator, so i dont know what to do. can someone please help me with this in DETAIL? what do i need to get?

A: Your alternator puts out around 10% over what the car will draw if every electrical system is on. I think your factory alternator is 105 amps.. Do you NEED a HO alternator.. not really not right now if your stock alternator is still working. Would a HO alternator help? Definitely Would a HO alternator keep up with all of your aftermarket needs? Yes. I have one, and I have no problems at all. Batteries do not produce electricity, they just store it. If you are using more than you are making, you have problems. You have the right idea with the batteries. I have never used kinetik batteries, but I have heard alot of good things about them. If you use 2 batteries, replace the stock with one, and put the other one in the back. Use a 200 amp relay to isolate the second battery when the vehicle is off. Stinger makes a nice one. Model SR 200, you can find them for around $50 on ebay. Basically it disconnects the second battery from the charging system and the primary battery when the car is off. The reason you need to isolate the second battery is because no two batteries are exactly the same, and they will bleed each other down. This won't happen overnight but over a period of time the weaker one sucks from the stronger one and they wear each other out.. Plus, if there is a draw on the main battery (leaving the lights on) and it goes dead, you have a secondary already wired up, just turn the switch on.

Q: I have a 1995 Chevy Lumina. Twice in the last year my ABS light went on. New brakes were installed last fall.
I detected a different "feel" while braking and it felt like they were "cycling". Each time, after several weeks, the situation disappeared. Should I be concerned? Can ABS brakes be dis-engaged? If so, is that a wise option? This vehicle has less than 50,000 miles and is only driven 2-5 miles a day in local suburban stop-and-go traffic. What to do? Thanks!

A: The ABS cycling problem is probably due to dirt between the ABS sensor rotor, also known as the "trigger wheel" and the ABS wheel sensor,which both are incorporated in the brakes system behind the wheels. these components can be disturbed by dirt, grease etc. if that's the case and the dirt worked its way out and the problem no longer exists the problem should be solved. Anyway if the ABS st oped working you should should still have a base brake system, and the brakes should operate as if you never had A ABS system.